1953 2 door sedan, roof has been chopped, shaved door handles, frenched headlights, air bags in the rear, runs a 350 small block chevy with a th350 transmission,
Car was bought from California like this and shipped to Australia
Lots of work already done, but still lots of work to be done to finish it off. Is a good starting point.

She is rough as hell… Need to do so much sheet metal work i dont even want to think about it..ha ha Some idiot cut out the the trunk to put in some 98 Lincoln rear end….
So i am starting work this weekend wish me luck….

Here are some more pics, I grafted 1948 Caddy tail lights to it and lowered the front and rear bumpers and added a sun visor,
Regards
Arthur

Here are some more pics of my 53 Chevy…
Arthur from Camperdown, Victoria, Australia..

Ballarat Kustom Fabrication did a Awesome job fabricating the chassis and tunnel and installing the
Air Bags, There notch is the best I have seen done on any car Looks all original…Exhausts exit via the
rear bar, Fenton headers, tri power set up and Wayne dress up kit..

1. Remove Stock Emergency brake mount.
2. Trim or Remove Firewall fins.
3. Tack Weld Motor Mounts.
4. Test Fit Engine.
5. Remove Engine.
6. Finish Weld Motor Mounts.

In order to make everything easier I removed the entire front sheetmetal. You can keep the grill, radiator support, and fenders bolted together and remove the front assembly as a whole. After removing the front fender and motor, I removed the emergency brake mounts with a 4 1/2″ cut off wheel. On my 50 there was a few brackets on the frame that needed to be removed in order to install the walton’s motor mounts. An air hammer will quickly remove the brackets or if you don’t have access to air tool you can drill out the spot welds that attach the brackets to the frame.

Accessories that fit:

Headers/Exhuast Manifolds
For the stock steering sanderson headers will work with most small block chevy motors.

Cast iron manifold will also work. A rear dump type on the drivers side and a center dump type on the passenger side. See manifold in engine photo >>

With aftermarket IFS systems most block hugger headers will fit as well as a rear dump type on the drivers side and a center dump type on the passenger side.

I used Sanderson headers with the crate engine I am installing in 1950 chevy. Chassis Engineering also make a specific header for 49-54 chevrolet cars.

Emergency Brake
Since you have to remove the stock emergency brake mount to install a v8, here are some options to re-install an emerrgency brake in your 1949 to 1954 chevrolet.

S-10 Truck (junkyard)
Lokar
Control Cables (makes non-billet foot e-brake)
55-57 chevy car e-brake handle (May not be easy to find, mounts on left side of dash)
Gennie Shifter E-brake (Gennie sells a complete setup including cables)

Water Pump
A short water pump will fit. Long water pump did not fit in my 1950 chevy with a ZZ3 GM Performance crate motor and walton’s fabrication motor mounts.

Motor Mounts
This page is still in progress, check back for updates.

Motor Mounts:
Speedway Motors
Walton’s Fabrication
Chassis Engineering
Total Cost Involved
Chevys of the 40s (3659291M bolt-in, 3693425N weld in, 3700332 bolt-in)

Headers:
Sanderson headers for use with stock 49-54 IFS
Chassis Engineering

How-To Links:
V8 Conversion – Walton Fabrication Mounts and crossmember

How-To Links:
V8 Conversion – Walton Fabrication Mounts and crossmember

Firewall – Inline 6	Firewall – Trimmed	Walton Mounts	Motor Mock-up
Motor Installed

Mustang 2 Installation 1949-1954 Chevy Car. Steps required to install mustang 2 in a 49-54 chevrolet. The conversion is simple with the proper tools and the proper kit.

I choose the Fat Man Fabrication kit for my 1950 chevy.
Reasons I choose this kit:
Quality Crossmember
Ultra low option
Free stainless polished tubular a-arms.
Big Brakes

Here are some of the steps involved to installing a Fat Man Ultra-Low Mustang 2 kit. (Assuming you already have the engine removed)

1. Remove Stock Sheet Metal.
2. Level Frame
3. Mark Axle Centerline.
4. Brace Frame.
5. Remove Stock Suspension.
6. Clean Frame.
7. Tack Weld Crossmember.
8. Check Crossmeber is level.
9. Final Weld Crossmember.
10. Setup Spring Hats.
11. Tack Weld Spring hats.
12. Re-Check Fit of Spring Hats.
13. Final Weld Spring Hats.
14. Install Rack and Mark for C-Notch.
15. Cut for C-Notch.
16. Tack Weld C-Notch.
17. Test Fit IFS Componenets and Check Clearance of rack within c-notch.
18. Remove IFS Components.
19. Final Weld C-notch.
20. Paint and Re-Assemble.
21. Cut Inner Fenders.
22. Hook-Up Steering.

In order to make everything easier I removed the entire front sheetmetal. You can keep the grill, radiator support, and fenders bolted together and remove the front assembly as a whole. After removing the front fender and motor, On my 50 there was a few brackets on the frame that needed to be removed in order to install the mustang2.

Please note: I am in the middle of working on the page.



FRONT SUSPENSION OPTIONS

I have asked around for feedback and pros/cons of various mustang II crossmembers and hub-to-hub tubular A-Arm Kits. After reading/researching on the H.A.M.B. I read about tubular a-arm failures from Heidts.

Mustang 2 manufacturers:

Chassis Engineering (Bolt-In, power rack NOT Available, excellent feedback)
Heidts (Weld In) Reports of bad customer service.
Fatman Fabrication (Weld in, excellent feedback)
Total Cost Involved (Bolt-in crossmember/ Weld-in Shock towers) Excellent feedback.
Jim meyer (weld-in)
RB’s Auto (Bolt-In, Bad reviews/feedback, Does not center the wheels in the wheel-well See Site Visitor Testimonial and photos.)
Scott’s (Good feedback, Waiting on customer testimonial)