Hi All;
My my name is John and I live in Napa, Ca. This is my 1949 Chevy coupe. The history as far as I know was it was built by two brothers in Salinas Ca. They owned the car until I bought it a few years ago. It’s been chopped 4 inches and had the b pillars leaned. Rounded door frames, custom skirts, head lights and tail lights. It runs a zz4 350 with a B&M 700R4. Must II front and 4 link rear. FBSS air bags and my friend just upgraded my air to a York compressor and all new hydraulic lines. I tubbed the trunk to get it down just a bit lower. I’ve stockpiled almost all the stainless for the car as well as a 64 T-bird Interior for it. Plan is to get that all in sometime this year in prep for paint and body maybe next.
Thanks for looking.

John, thanks for sending in the photos. 50chevy visitors send in your projects or completed rides. Would be nice to put up a new ride everyday.
Thanks for visiting 50chevy.

heres my 49 chevy. its a 49 in 50 clothes. i sub framed it with camaro clip from a 1980 camaro. rebuilt the whole front end after install. bushings ball joints shocksupper tube cotrole arms. has 350sbc 400turbo trans and a stock 226 gear open rear end out of a camaro. custom interior.gonna put crate moter in soon. will make pic doc of it all. and postsome of it.

Much of the alterations was documented with pic’s. The hard work was done during the winter months Sep 07 – May 08.

My son and I removed everything from the front windshield forward, leaving only the frame rails.

We installed a TCI front suspension, power rack, disc, etc.

Bought 330 hp crate motor; moved master cyl to firewall; alum radiator, Ididit tilt chrome column, dolphin gauges in orig cluster; 85 Buick 200-4R; lokar shifter; bucket seats; complete new interior; replumbed gas and brake lines; 55 chevy rear with 3:36 gears.

Its “on the road” but needs exterior paint and some chrome work.

Series designations were determined by trim level, not body style. Each line had a Styleline (notchback) and a Fleetline (fastback) sub-series. Serial numbers: 2 digit letter prefix (GJ & GK) indicate year and model, followed by a dash and 4 numbers indicating body type. These 4 numbers could also have a Letter suffix indicating trim or equipment options. Serial numbers for Special Series were GJ-1001 to GJ-47213, Serial numbers for Deluxe Series were GK-1001 to GK-128201.
GJ = Stylemaster (incl. Fleetline Sub-Series – fastback)
GK =  Fleetmaster (incl. Fleetline Sub-Series – fastback)
Special Series Body Style Numbers
Model Number Body/Style Number Styleline Sub Series
1503 49-1269 4 Door Sedan
1502 49-1211 2 Door Sedan
1524 49-1277 2 Door Sport Coupe
1504 49-1227B 2 Door Business Coupe

Model Number Body/Style Number Fleetline Sub Series
1553 49-1208 4 Door Sedan
1552 49-1207 2 Door Sedan

Deluxe Series Body Style Numbers
Model Number Body/Style Number Styleline Sub Series
2103 49-1069 4 Door Sedan
2102 49-1011 2 Door Sedan
2124 49-1027 2 Door Sport Coupe
2134 49-1067 2 Door Convertible
2109 49-1061 4 Door Wood Wagon
2119 49-1062 4 Door Steel Wagon

Model Number Body/Style Number Fleetline Sub Series
2153 50-1008 4 Door Sedan
2152 50-1007 2 Door Sedan

1. Remove Stock Emergency brake mount.
2. Trim or Remove Firewall fins.
3. Tack Weld Motor Mounts.
4. Test Fit Engine.
5. Remove Engine.
6. Finish Weld Motor Mounts.

In order to make everything easier I removed the entire front sheetmetal. You can keep the grill, radiator support, and fenders bolted together and remove the front assembly as a whole. After removing the front fender and motor, I removed the emergency brake mounts with a 4 1/2″ cut off wheel. On my 50 there was a few brackets on the frame that needed to be removed in order to install the walton’s motor mounts. An air hammer will quickly remove the brackets or if you don’t have access to air tool you can drill out the spot welds that attach the brackets to the frame.

Accessories that fit:

Headers/Exhuast Manifolds
For the stock steering sanderson headers will work with most small block chevy motors.

Cast iron manifold will also work. A rear dump type on the drivers side and a center dump type on the passenger side. See manifold in engine photo >>

With aftermarket IFS systems most block hugger headers will fit as well as a rear dump type on the drivers side and a center dump type on the passenger side.

I used Sanderson headers with the crate engine I am installing in 1950 chevy. Chassis Engineering also make a specific header for 49-54 chevrolet cars.

Emergency Brake
Since you have to remove the stock emergency brake mount to install a v8, here are some options to re-install an emerrgency brake in your 1949 to 1954 chevrolet.

S-10 Truck (junkyard)
Lokar
Control Cables (makes non-billet foot e-brake)
55-57 chevy car e-brake handle (May not be easy to find, mounts on left side of dash)
Gennie Shifter E-brake (Gennie sells a complete setup including cables)

Water Pump
A short water pump will fit. Long water pump did not fit in my 1950 chevy with a ZZ3 GM Performance crate motor and walton’s fabrication motor mounts.

Motor Mounts
This page is still in progress, check back for updates.

Motor Mounts:
Speedway Motors
Walton’s Fabrication
Chassis Engineering
Total Cost Involved
Chevys of the 40s (3659291M bolt-in, 3693425N weld in, 3700332 bolt-in)

Headers:
Sanderson headers for use with stock 49-54 IFS
Chassis Engineering

How-To Links:
V8 Conversion – Walton Fabrication Mounts and crossmember

How-To Links:
V8 Conversion – Walton Fabrication Mounts and crossmember

Firewall – Inline 6	Firewall – Trimmed	Walton Mounts	Motor Mock-up
Motor Installed

Mustang 2 Installation 1949-1954 Chevy Car. Steps required to install mustang 2 in a 49-54 chevrolet. The conversion is simple with the proper tools and the proper kit.

I choose the Fat Man Fabrication kit for my 1950 chevy.
Reasons I choose this kit:
Quality Crossmember
Ultra low option
Free stainless polished tubular a-arms.
Big Brakes

Here are some of the steps involved to installing a Fat Man Ultra-Low Mustang 2 kit. (Assuming you already have the engine removed)

1. Remove Stock Sheet Metal.
2. Level Frame
3. Mark Axle Centerline.
4. Brace Frame.
5. Remove Stock Suspension.
6. Clean Frame.
7. Tack Weld Crossmember.
8. Check Crossmeber is level.
9. Final Weld Crossmember.
10. Setup Spring Hats.
11. Tack Weld Spring hats.
12. Re-Check Fit of Spring Hats.
13. Final Weld Spring Hats.
14. Install Rack and Mark for C-Notch.
15. Cut for C-Notch.
16. Tack Weld C-Notch.
17. Test Fit IFS Componenets and Check Clearance of rack within c-notch.
18. Remove IFS Components.
19. Final Weld C-notch.
20. Paint and Re-Assemble.
21. Cut Inner Fenders.
22. Hook-Up Steering.

In order to make everything easier I removed the entire front sheetmetal. You can keep the grill, radiator support, and fenders bolted together and remove the front assembly as a whole. After removing the front fender and motor, On my 50 there was a few brackets on the frame that needed to be removed in order to install the mustang2.

Please note: I am in the middle of working on the page.



FRONT SUSPENSION OPTIONS

I have asked around for feedback and pros/cons of various mustang II crossmembers and hub-to-hub tubular A-Arm Kits. After reading/researching on the H.A.M.B. I read about tubular a-arm failures from Heidts.

Mustang 2 manufacturers:

Chassis Engineering (Bolt-In, power rack NOT Available, excellent feedback)
Heidts (Weld In) Reports of bad customer service.
Fatman Fabrication (Weld in, excellent feedback)
Total Cost Involved (Bolt-in crossmember/ Weld-in Shock towers) Excellent feedback.
Jim meyer (weld-in)
RB’s Auto (Bolt-In, Bad reviews/feedback, Does not center the wheels in the wheel-well See Site Visitor Testimonial and photos.)
Scott’s (Good feedback, Waiting on customer testimonial)

Took some photos this last weekend of the Asphalt Invitational at Swiss Park in Newark, Ca

Got them added to the site.

Check all of the photos out here

Thanks for supporting 50chevy.