I am Jeremy , and wanted to share some photos of my 1954 chevy 210 sedan, that i am currently building in my garage. I started out installing a Total Cost Involved mustang 2 front end with disc brakes and air bags. I soon pulled the body off of the car to build the rest of the chassis. Out back is now a step
notch with a curie rear end ford 9 inch cut to 60″ flange to flange. I then decided how i wanted to build the mounts for the triangulated four link. You can see in the pictures what i came up with. When all was measured and welded for the four link i worked on the custom cross member witch houses a drive shaft hoop from art morrison, at the time i purchased the hoop i also purchased there universal K member kit , that i put some holes in along with holes for the exhaust. I will soon have more pictures of the updated progress.

To convert your torque tube suspension to a open drive line. You will need the proper width rear-end. I am running a 1976 camaro 10 bolt. I am still working on this page.

These are some swaps that will work. Also confirmed by many 50chevy.com readers

* 55-57 Chevy Cars.
* 68-72 Nova
* 70-81 camaro

For 49-54 cars,you will need a rear-end that is 60″ wide. You can use the stock leaf springs but you will get a much better ride with a wide leaf spring kit. (2.5″ wide) If you run a rear-end that is 58.5 inches wide you will be able to run a 8″ wide rim (3 3/4″ backspacing)in the rear.

Wide Rear Leaf Spring Kits:
Chassis Engineering
Posies
Walton Fabrication

Parallel 4-link:
Total Cost Involved

Air Spring 4-Link:
Total Cost Involved

Complete Rear Ends:
Total Cost Involved

STEERING COLUMN OPTIONS FOR MUSTANG 2 / AFTERMARKET FRONT SUSPENSION

So you want to put a new suspension in your 49-54 chevy? You will need some way to adapt the steering column to your rack and pinion.

Options:

Modify Stock Column
70s Chevrolet van
Any other junkyard find you can adapt.
Purchase Aftermarket Column. (See below for links)

You will also need some steering shafts, adapator and possibly a support bearing. Whether or not you need a support bearing depends on the type of engine and headers you are using. Since there are so many scenarios I will not cover them all here.

Here is some information provided by Borgeson on steering system setup.

For my 50 chevy I had to use a support bearing and 2 steering shafts. I have seen some people get away with a single steering shaft. (See pic)

Read the How-to below to see how to modify your stock column. You will keep that stock appearance and also save some $$$.

Here is how I sectioned the stock steering column and adapted the column to the rack & pinion. (More to come.)

First I cut the column off at the steering box. (inner shaft + outer shaft)

Where the outer shaft of the column meets the steering box it tapers down.

Next I cut off the end of the outer column.


I got a bearing with a 1 3/8″ O.D. and kept cutting down the end until the bearing fit snug in the end. ( Note: The bearing is a caster bearing it was available at Orchard Supply Hardware $4.95)

Then I sectioned the column down to 30″ total diameter

Then welded the two pieces together

Then cleaned up w grinder

I then added a set screw to hold the bearing in place.
I also welded on a piece of bar stock that was drilled and tapped, that way the bottom of the column is bolted in place to the firewall.
Then steering shaft itself was tig welded to a borgenson joint 3/4″ x 3/4″ double d.
The steering wheel then holds the assembly together.

Close up of end of column before paint:

Now the steering wheel isn’t so close to me and I have a clean column.

More photos coming of painted and installed column.

Let me know if you have any questions.

California Caster Bearing -3/4″ ID x 1 3/8″ O.D. (Available at Orchard Supply Hardware)
Set Screws (Available at Orchard Supply Hardware)
Steering Couplers (Borgeson or Flaming River)
Steering Shafts (Borgeson or Flaming River)
Support Bearing (Borgeson or Flaming River)

All Tech Pics

Disc Brake Conversion Kits:
Speedway Motors
ECI

How-To Links:
Walton Fabrication Firewall Power Brakes

Please join this site or contact me to share your knowledge.

Transmission vendors:
Bowtie Overdrives
Phoenix Transmission Products
TCI
B&M

Parts Needed for overdrive swap. (700r4/200r4)

Transmission
TV Cable system
Transmission lines
Transmission Cooler
Wiring Kit
Speedometer Gear
Torque converter
Flexplate
Crossmember

Parts Needed for overdrive swap. (TH350/400)

Transmission
Transmission lines
Transmission Cooler
Torque converter
Flexplate
Crossmember
Crossmember manufacturers:
Walton’s Fabrication
Chassis Engineering

Please contact me with any information. Any contributions and appreciated and shared via this site.

Please note: This page is incomplete, view old page here. This page will be updated shortly.

1. Remove Stock Emergency brake mount.
2. Trim or Remove Firewall fins.
3. Tack Weld Motor Mounts.
4. Test Fit Engine.
5. Remove Engine.
6. Finish Weld Motor Mounts.

In order to make everything easier I removed the entire front sheetmetal. You can keep the grill, radiator support, and fenders bolted together and remove the front assembly as a whole. After removing the front fender and motor, I removed the emergency brake mounts with a 4 1/2″ cut off wheel. On my 50 there was a few brackets on the frame that needed to be removed in order to install the walton’s motor mounts. An air hammer will quickly remove the brackets or if you don’t have access to air tool you can drill out the spot welds that attach the brackets to the frame.

Accessories that fit:

Headers/Exhuast Manifolds
For the stock steering sanderson headers will work with most small block chevy motors.

Cast iron manifold will also work. A rear dump type on the drivers side and a center dump type on the passenger side. See manifold in engine photo >>

With aftermarket IFS systems most block hugger headers will fit as well as a rear dump type on the drivers side and a center dump type on the passenger side.

I used Sanderson headers with the crate engine I am installing in 1950 chevy. Chassis Engineering also make a specific header for 49-54 chevrolet cars.

Emergency Brake
Since you have to remove the stock emergency brake mount to install a v8, here are some options to re-install an emerrgency brake in your 1949 to 1954 chevrolet.

S-10 Truck (junkyard)
Lokar
Control Cables (makes non-billet foot e-brake)
55-57 chevy car e-brake handle (May not be easy to find, mounts on left side of dash)
Gennie Shifter E-brake (Gennie sells a complete setup including cables)

Water Pump
A short water pump will fit. Long water pump did not fit in my 1950 chevy with a ZZ3 GM Performance crate motor and walton’s fabrication motor mounts.

Motor Mounts
This page is still in progress, check back for updates.

Motor Mounts:
Speedway Motors
Walton’s Fabrication
Chassis Engineering
Total Cost Involved
Chevys of the 40s (3659291M bolt-in, 3693425N weld in, 3700332 bolt-in)

Headers:
Sanderson headers for use with stock 49-54 IFS
Chassis Engineering

How-To Links:
V8 Conversion – Walton Fabrication Mounts and crossmember

How-To Links:
V8 Conversion – Walton Fabrication Mounts and crossmember

Firewall – Inline 6	Firewall – Trimmed	Walton Mounts	Motor Mock-up
Motor Installed

Mustang 2 Installation 1949-1954 Chevy Car. Steps required to install mustang 2 in a 49-54 chevrolet. The conversion is simple with the proper tools and the proper kit.

I choose the Fat Man Fabrication kit for my 1950 chevy.
Reasons I choose this kit:
Quality Crossmember
Ultra low option
Free stainless polished tubular a-arms.
Big Brakes

Here are some of the steps involved to installing a Fat Man Ultra-Low Mustang 2 kit. (Assuming you already have the engine removed)

1. Remove Stock Sheet Metal.
2. Level Frame
3. Mark Axle Centerline.
4. Brace Frame.
5. Remove Stock Suspension.
6. Clean Frame.
7. Tack Weld Crossmember.
8. Check Crossmeber is level.
9. Final Weld Crossmember.
10. Setup Spring Hats.
11. Tack Weld Spring hats.
12. Re-Check Fit of Spring Hats.
13. Final Weld Spring Hats.
14. Install Rack and Mark for C-Notch.
15. Cut for C-Notch.
16. Tack Weld C-Notch.
17. Test Fit IFS Componenets and Check Clearance of rack within c-notch.
18. Remove IFS Components.
19. Final Weld C-notch.
20. Paint and Re-Assemble.
21. Cut Inner Fenders.
22. Hook-Up Steering.

In order to make everything easier I removed the entire front sheetmetal. You can keep the grill, radiator support, and fenders bolted together and remove the front assembly as a whole. After removing the front fender and motor, On my 50 there was a few brackets on the frame that needed to be removed in order to install the mustang2.

Please note: I am in the middle of working on the page.



FRONT SUSPENSION OPTIONS

I have asked around for feedback and pros/cons of various mustang II crossmembers and hub-to-hub tubular A-Arm Kits. After reading/researching on the H.A.M.B. I read about tubular a-arm failures from Heidts.

Mustang 2 manufacturers:

Chassis Engineering (Bolt-In, power rack NOT Available, excellent feedback)
Heidts (Weld In) Reports of bad customer service.
Fatman Fabrication (Weld in, excellent feedback)
Total Cost Involved (Bolt-in crossmember/ Weld-in Shock towers) Excellent feedback.
Jim meyer (weld-in)
RB’s Auto (Bolt-In, Bad reviews/feedback, Does not center the wheels in the wheel-well See Site Visitor Testimonial and photos.)
Scott’s (Good feedback, Waiting on customer testimonial)

For 49-54 cars,you will need a rear-end that is 60″ wide. You can use the stock leaf springs but you will get a much better ride with a wide leaf spring kit. (2.5″ wide) If you run a rear-end that is 58.5 inches wide you will be able to run a 8″ wide rim (3 3/4″ backspacing)in the rear.

Wide Rear Leaf Spring Kits:
Chassis Engineering
Posies
Walton Fabrication

Parallel 4-link:
Total Cost Involved

Air Spring 4-Link:
Total Cost Involved

Complete Rear Ends:
Total Cost Involved