I am Jeremy , and wanted to share some photos of my 1954 chevy 210 sedan, that i am currently building in my garage. I started out installing a Total Cost Involved mustang 2 front end with disc brakes and air bags. I soon pulled the body off of the car to build the rest of the chassis. Out back is now a step
notch with a curie rear end ford 9 inch cut to 60″ flange to flange. I then decided how i wanted to build the mounts for the triangulated four link. You can see in the pictures what i came up with. When all was measured and welded for the four link i worked on the custom cross member witch houses a drive shaft hoop from art morrison, at the time i purchased the hoop i also purchased there universal K member kit , that i put some holes in along with holes for the exhaust. I will soon have more pictures of the updated progress.

Mustang 2 Installation 1949-1954 Chevy Car. Steps required to install mustang 2 in a 49-54 chevrolet. The conversion is simple with the proper tools and the proper kit.

I choose the Fat Man Fabrication kit for my 1950 chevy.
Reasons I choose this kit:
Quality Crossmember
Ultra low option
Free stainless polished tubular a-arms.
Big Brakes

Here are some of the steps involved to installing a Fat Man Ultra-Low Mustang 2 kit. (Assuming you already have the engine removed)

1. Remove Stock Sheet Metal.
2. Level Frame
3. Mark Axle Centerline.
4. Brace Frame.
5. Remove Stock Suspension.
6. Clean Frame.
7. Tack Weld Crossmember.
8. Check Crossmeber is level.
9. Final Weld Crossmember.
10. Setup Spring Hats.
11. Tack Weld Spring hats.
12. Re-Check Fit of Spring Hats.
13. Final Weld Spring Hats.
14. Install Rack and Mark for C-Notch.
15. Cut for C-Notch.
16. Tack Weld C-Notch.
17. Test Fit IFS Componenets and Check Clearance of rack within c-notch.
18. Remove IFS Components.
19. Final Weld C-notch.
20. Paint and Re-Assemble.
21. Cut Inner Fenders.
22. Hook-Up Steering.

In order to make everything easier I removed the entire front sheetmetal. You can keep the grill, radiator support, and fenders bolted together and remove the front assembly as a whole. After removing the front fender and motor, On my 50 there was a few brackets on the frame that needed to be removed in order to install the mustang2.

Please note: I am in the middle of working on the page.



FRONT SUSPENSION OPTIONS

I have asked around for feedback and pros/cons of various mustang II crossmembers and hub-to-hub tubular A-Arm Kits. After reading/researching on the H.A.M.B. I read about tubular a-arm failures from Heidts.

Mustang 2 manufacturers:

Chassis Engineering (Bolt-In, power rack NOT Available, excellent feedback)
Heidts (Weld In) Reports of bad customer service.
Fatman Fabrication (Weld in, excellent feedback)
Total Cost Involved (Bolt-in crossmember/ Weld-in Shock towers) Excellent feedback.
Jim meyer (weld-in)
RB’s Auto (Bolt-In, Bad reviews/feedback, Does not center the wheels in the wheel-well See Site Visitor Testimonial and photos.)
Scott’s (Good feedback, Waiting on customer testimonial)

For 49-54 cars,you will need a rear-end that is 60″ wide. You can use the stock leaf springs but you will get a much better ride with a wide leaf spring kit. (2.5″ wide) If you run a rear-end that is 58.5 inches wide you will be able to run a 8″ wide rim (3 3/4″ backspacing)in the rear.

Wide Rear Leaf Spring Kits:
Chassis Engineering
Posies
Walton Fabrication

Parallel 4-link:
Total Cost Involved

Air Spring 4-Link:
Total Cost Involved

Complete Rear Ends:
Total Cost Involved